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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 44(1): 91-102, 2022 Feb.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34860432

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: This study was initiated and conducted by several laboratories, 3 of the main cosmetic ingredient suppliers and 4 brands of cosmetics in France. Its objective is to show the interest and robustness of coupling chemical and genetic analyses in the identification of plant species. In this study, the Lavandula genus was used. METHODS: In this study, we used two analytical methods. Chemical analysis from UHPLC (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography) and genetic analysis from barcoding with genetic markers. RESULTS: Eleven lavender species were selected (botanically authenticated) and analysed. The results show that three chemical compounds (coumaric acid hexoside, ferulic acid hexoside and rosmarinic acid) and three genetic markers (RbcL, trnH-psbA and ITS) are of interest for the differentiation of species of the genus lavandula. CONCLUSION: The results show that the combination of complementary analytical methods is a relevant system to prove the botanical identification of lavender species. This first study, carried out on a plant of interest for cosmetics, demonstrates the need for authentication using a tool combining genetic and chemical analysis as an advance over traditional investigation methods used alone, in terms of identification and authentication reliability.


OBJECTIF: Cette étude a été lancée et menée par plusieurs laboratoires, trois des principaux fournisseurs d'ingrédients cosmétiques et quatre marques de cosmétiques en France. Son objectif est de montrer qu'associer les analyses chimiques et génétiques dans l'identification des espèces végétales présente un intérêt et est une approche solide. Dans cette étude, c'est le genre Lavandula qui a été utilisé. MÉTHODES: Dans cette étude, nous avons fait appel à deux méthodes analytiques. L'analyse chimique, à partir de la chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography, UHPLC), et l'analyse génétique en procédant à un codage à barres avec des marqueurs génétiques. RÉSULTATS: Onze espèces de lavande ont été sélectionnées (authentifiées du point de vue botanique) et analysées. Les résultats montrent que trois composés chimiques (acide coumarique hexoside, acide ferulique hexoside et acide rosmarinique) et trois marqueurs génétiques (RbcL, trnH-psbA et ITS) présentent un intérêt pour la différenciation des espèces du genre lavandula. CONCLUSION: Les résultats montrent que la combinaison de méthodes analytiques complémentaires est un système pertinent pour prouver l'identification végétale des espèces de lavande. Cette première étude, réalisée sur une plante qui offre un intérêt pour les cosmétiques, démontre la nécessité de procéder à une authentification à l'aide d'un outil qui conjugue analyse génétique et chimique ; elle représente une avancée par rapport aux méthodes d'investigation traditionnelles utilisées seules, en termes d'identification et de fiabilité de l'authentification.


Assuntos
Código de Barras de DNA Taxonômico , Lavandula , Código de Barras de DNA Taxonômico/métodos , DNA de Plantas/genética , Marcadores Genéticos , Lavandula/genética , Reprodutibilidade dos Testes
2.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33780325

RESUMO

Pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs) and their corresponding N-oxides (PANOs) are natural protoxins biosynthesised by many plant species and are responsible for occasional fatal intoxication outbreaks due to the consumption of contaminated food. However, only in rare cases has the origin of the contamination been determined. Although their presence has been studied in many matrices, occurrence data on popular widely used cooking herbs, seeds, spices and leafy vegetables is very scarce. Therefore, a systematic study on the occurrence of PA/PANOs contaminations in these popular herbal items, available on the Belgian market, was performed, by means of a validatedtargeted LC-MS/MS analysis, followed by multilocus DNA metabarcoding to track back the origin of the contamination for seven highly to moderately contaminated samples. Our results clearly indicate that 21% of the seed spices and 25% seed-based aromatic mixes contain an amount higher than 400 µg of the 30 summed targeted PAs and PANOs per kg, the value which is currently under discussion by the European member states to be set as a maximum threshold. For both the herbs and the herb-based mixes only 7% of analysed samples exceeded these levels. As a proof of concept, multilocus DNA metabarcoding was performed on six highly contaminated samples, belonging to each subtype matrix, containing high levels of heliotrine type of PA/PANOs. Each time the analysis demonstrated the presence of DNA from a plant species belonging to the plant genus Heliotropium. Moreover, a contaminated leafy vegetable sample, containing solely senecionine type PA/PANOs, contained DNA from Senecio vulgaris. Taken together, it can be stated that the proposed combinatory chemical and molecular techniques could be used to verify if a PA/PANO(s) contamination occurred in these popular cooking items and to pinpoint the origin the contamination, which is pivotal in the case of a detrimental intoxication or intoxication outbreak.


Assuntos
Contaminação de Alimentos/análise , Alcaloides de Pirrolizidina/análise , Sementes/química , Especiarias/análise , Verduras/química , Bélgica , Técnicas Biossensoriais , Cromatografia Líquida de Alta Pressão , Culinária , Código de Barras de DNA Taxonômico , Humanos , Senécio/química , Espectrometria de Massas em Tandem
3.
Chem Biodivers ; 15(10): e1800251, 2018 Oct.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30092617

RESUMO

The authentication and traceability of spices is a major concern for industrials and consumers. We focused on species from Zanthoxylum genera which are used for many different applications by local populations and also for trading as spices (dried pericarps or whole fruits). In this case, literature gives contradictory data about botanical names, and commercial labelling is often confusing. We studied commercial fruits pericarps extracts obtained by supercritical CO2 and analyzed them by GC/MS. The very complex volatile and semi volatile fractions composition of each extract is described. The barcoding method including molecular biology and phylogenetic analyses was also developed in order to check the commercial botanical identification of the raw material. This is a robust method to identify species in berries samples. We used one genetic marker to identify two Rutaceae clusters, including several species of Zanthoxylum genus. These results indicate that Fagara and Zanthoxylum groups could be considered as two different genera. Combination of chemical analysis and DNA analysis provides an original approach to increase chemical and botanical Zanthoxylum genus knowledge.


Assuntos
DNA de Plantas/genética , Filogenia , Zanthoxylum/química , Zanthoxylum/genética , DNA de Plantas/análise , DNA de Plantas/classificação , Frutas/química , Frutas/classificação , Frutas/genética , Cromatografia Gasosa-Espectrometria de Massas , Extratos Vegetais/química , Extratos Vegetais/classificação , Extratos Vegetais/genética , Rutaceae/química , Rutaceae/classificação , Rutaceae/genética , Zanthoxylum/classificação
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